These plans came from a gentleman who goes by the name of Wingdo on the PIE board.
Follow the link to the Poultry Information Exchange (PIE) for some fun poultry discussion or to ask Wingdo some questions about his traps.
Wingdo can also be reached via e-mail at email@example.com.
If you want to print out the photo on a plain sheet of paper, the photo appears rotated at trap2txt.jpg.
Blue prints can be seen at TRAPFbp.jpg or in green at
TRAPFgp.jpg. Please let us know which you find easiest to read.
Detailed instructions can be found at Trap Instructions.
Wingdo's comments about the trap follow.
I am proud of these little varmint catchers and nobody would believe me if I told them everything I've caught in them i.e.: skunk, opossum, coon, rabbit, dogs of all sizes, coyote, fox, snakes, chickens, my pets (more than once), squirrel, bob kitty, weasel, mink, quail, turkey, fish and a real dumb buzzard once! The best part is the small to mediums are made of old lumber, strings and sticks! Old lumber is best for these traps because you don't have to de-scent anything except the newly cut edges. This is done by rubbing the edges and possibly the wire with apples, peaches or pears and quickly removes or hides the human scent and encourages a certain amount of surface decay. Also, once you figure out the trigger and pivot arm, you can scale these traps to any size predator problem you may have by using 2" X 2" wire or plywood.
Anyone that can use a saw, drill and pocket knife can make these traps. The shelf on the trigger and the door are the only critical components and even they only have to be "close" to work perfectly. I have only one at this time that is large enough to catch a big dog but that is plenty for me. It stands 26' tall and is 48" deep and has served me very well in the last ten years. I also built one when I was about seven that was 4" tall and 8" deep to catch barn rats (just for fun) and it too worked perfectly. I still have it as a matter of fact and my grandson uses it to catch the stray mouse to scare his mommy! It is important to use a heavy wire mesh on the back of these traps to allow light and yet be stout enough to stand up to the small teeth of some of the small critters. I used some cold rolled (soft steel) mesh once and found the critters could chew out enough of it to escape in less than four hours, so I now use only galvanized mesh. They should be stored out of doors against the side of a building to offer a little protection during the off season. With a little practice and the proper bait they are very effective for anything from coyotes to skunks and can be used in the creek for a fish trap, although this is rather hard on them for extended periods.
Mac from the PIE board explains some of the details further: The door is just a piece of plywood or a board that slids up and down in a groove in the box. If you make the box of plywood, you use thin slats fastened to the inside of the trap to make a groove or track for the door to move in. You can see from the plans where to make this groove. The center post of the trigger is just a pivot. The longer top piece rests on this, with one end of the top piece attached to the door. The other end of the top piece is shaped so that it will fit in a notch in the vertical piece that goes inside the trap to hold the bait. Another notch in this vertical piece is shaped to catch the side of the hole through which it goes into the box. When an animal grasps the bait on the lower end of this vertical trigger piece it dislodges the long top piece and the door drops.